mercredi 30 janvier 2019

Book review: Science Comics: Dogs. From Predator to Protector



Book title: Science Comics: Dogs. From Predator to Protector

Author: Andy Hirsch


Who would this book suit? 

  • Educators of Science
  • Senior biology high school students
  • Biology and genetics university students
  • Dog breeders
  • Anyone interested in expanding their knowledge of dog genetics


What was awesome about this book? 

In the introductory pages it immediately addresses the wolf in dogs clothing/alpha myth of dogs and focuses on addressing the science about dogs. This in my mind is an excellent start!

As a science resource it has a relevant glossary of science terms, and a 'further reading' list with some excellent resources. There are SO many relevant science concepts introduced in the natural flow of the story from correct scientific naming and classification, the species concept, history and dog evolution, Mendelian inheritance, DNA, chromosomes, alleles, meiosis, alleles and punnet squares, complete / incomplete / codominance, environmental factors contributing to evolution, domestication, the Russian fox experiments, gene pools, specific canine biological traits, dog breeds, behaviour, and circadian rhythms.

The comic is well drawn, cute, and engaging. There are some excellent science infographic type pages interspersed with the cartoon story of Rudy the dog.

The price is also really reasonable. I have ordered a full set of the Science Comics for our school's science department!


What didn't I like about this book? 

I would have liked an index or contents at the start to be able to find specific ideas or chapters, but the book is one long comic. Some readers may find the pages quite visually overloading as the pages are quite 'busy'. But this is also a positive!

Verdict:
A must-have for any science educator, or dog genetics geek:


Where to find this book, or more information about it: 
 - https://www.booktopia.com.au/science-comics-dogs-andy-hirsch/prod9781626727687.html 
 - https://www.amazon.com/Science-Comics-Dogs-Predator-Protector/dp/1626727686
 - https://us.macmillan.com/series/sciencecomics 





jeudi 24 janvier 2019

So when is it time to start training on agility equipment for a young dog?

I often get asked ( or more pointedly perhaps NOT asked) about when is the right time to start 'proper' agility training. Equipment and stuff!


Here's the thing. It's complicated. There are very many issues and considerations involved. Here's a brain dump of my thoughts and considerations.

Factors to consider: 

  • How is your puppy doing with growing? Are they a large breed with heavy bone? A lighter boned smaller dog? 
  • Are your puppies growth plates closed or not? A dog's size will impact the time it takes growth plates to close. A smaller breed will be earlier, a larger breed later. Some Great Danes have been proven to not have closure in growth plates until close to three years old! And it's not just growth plates - after growth in terms of size and length of bones is completed the dog still takes more time to stretch and strengthen muscles, ligaments and tendons. The only way to conclusively confirm growth plate closure is x-ray. 
  • Were they neutered or spayed before growth plate closure? 
  • How is their base fitness, strength, muscle mass, stability, and movement looking? 
  • Have they had any orthopedic or health concerns that may impact growth and physical maturity? 
  • Even if their growth looks finished, and they have had no issues have you had regular checks by an experienced sports professional such as a animal physio or rehabilitation vet? 
  • How is your communication and reinforcement strategies? Are you confident in this as a team? Is your young dog an eager learning who does not get stressed or frustrated? 
  • Have you already taught important concepts like duration, movement patterns, interacting with items, holding stable positions, delayed reinforcement, circles to the left and right, nose or chin targets? 
  • Have you already practiced training and skills in a variety of different environments with success? 
  • Have you started practicing known skills with distractions like different dog's or people in the space? 
Basically is your dog physically and mentally ready, and are you as a learning team ready to tackle 'real' agility training. Spending time on these base skills with so very hugely pay off in the long run. I started Evo a little too early IMO on equipment, and in competition. I wish I had taken longer on our processes as a team that may have helped in the over-arousal we face in the ring. I also believe he wasn't physically completely mature until about 2 years 2 months or so. 



So an example. Flori is just over 8 months old at the time of writing this post. Here's a timeline of our focuses and progress, and what I imagine might happen over the next year or so.

2-3 months: 
 - Getting used to crates, the home environment and existing dogs, car travel
 - Learning the first food markers and taking food
 - Baby toy play
 - Socialization experiences and adventures
 - Cooperative care
 - First physio check
 - Starting visits to the hydrotherapist to get used to the environment

3-4 months: 
 - Socialization experiences and adventures
 - Cooperative care
 - More food markers, introducing toy markers
 - Stationing (base startline skill)
 - Introduction to equipment and surfaces for fitness work
 - Basic positions (sit, down, stand) and some movement skills (recall to heel, spin . twist etc.)
 - Adding more off lead adventures and hikes with other dogs.

4-5 months: 
 - Continued work on our communication and reinforcement tools, and starting applying these to lot's of different tricks and skills.
 - Adding to base fitness skills with movement between positions, sidestepping, foot pod work, etc.
 - Progressing stationing work to new places and adding distance and distractions.
 - First session (4 minutes total) wrapping a cone.

5-6 months: 
 - Second visit to the physio to check growth and progress, and given some more specific fitness exercises to start
 - Started hydrotherapy to add some strength and stability to wobble growing rear limbs and help ensure gait is fantastic.
 - Continuing learning and communication with trick work, and adding some delayed reinforcement and duration to known behaviors.

6-7 months: 
 - Adding a small amount of instability to stable positions in fitness, and adding experiences learning about cavaletti and the treadmill.
 - Asking for more behaviours in new places and new distractions like agility shows.
 - First tunnel (2 minute session).

8-9 months: 
 - Sits / waits recalls and adding distance and duration
 - Adding more toy marker cues as she becomes more reinforced by toy play
 - Taking it easy really as it's a very clear point in her growth where she's had a growth spurt and is taller and longer, but the muscles haven't caught up.



Planning ahead.... Keep in mind this will depend on many factors, and is not set in stone! 

9-10 months: 
 - Another physio check to check growth and progress in muscle strength and symmetry
 - Continuing hydro
 - Working on duration and distraction in waits and recalls, and stationing in different environments.
 - More work on foundation response to verbal markers and distractions, and toys as reinforcement
 - Solidifying her left and right, and applying this concept to a new situation (like left off a platform, right off a platform)
 - Contact base skill training

10-12 months: 
 - Likely to have her first season (OMG help me....)
 - Cone wrapping increasing understanding and adding distance and handler movement
 - Continuing to slightly progress fitness and strength, including hydro
 - More stationing, toy play, waits, recalls, and other known skills in different environments

12 - 14 months: 
 - Starting set point open jump work at low levels, and wrapping a wing (collection)
 - Baby tunnel games
 - Verbal cues under distraction in an agility context
 - Startline work around agility equipment
 - Delayed reinforcement around agility equipment
 - Slappy tappy past agility gear
 - Continuing contact base skills

14 - 16 months: 
 - Progressing single skill jump work, and tunnel skills plus more as above
 - Baby jump grids
 - Starting progress contact behaviour
 - Starting my 'ring routine' in training, and process at shows

16 - 18 months: 
 - Possibly a second season
 - Continuing single jump skill proofing, and increasing the bar
 - Starting weave work
 - Continuing tunnel and contact work
 - Starting my 'ring routine' in training, and process at shows

18 - 20 months: 
 - Progressing agility skills as above
 - Sequencing
 - Adding more delayed reinforcement strategies
 - Handling in a seminar

21 months: 
Ovariectomy or similar. I'm aiming for the middle point of her seasons.

22 months onwards: 
If all is going well then she will hopefully be competing and on my regular grown-up dog schedule of hydro, physio, fitness, training, walking and competition!

One day Florals! 




mardi 22 janvier 2019

A few of my favourite things


So I'm pretty into buying cool dog things. Here are a few of my favourite (dog) things. 

  • Name tags. Some people don't like to leave collars and name tags on their dogs while they are unattended. But I always have, because my first dog (Husky cross!) was an escape artist. Also because my dogs are frequently walked around school by students, and I need to know that they have this ID if they run off the school property. 
    • Mad Dog Metalworks make some excellent tags when their shop is open for orders (it's pretty busy though so this doesn't happen often, unfortunately!). 
  • S-binar: This is one of my essentials. Not only does it allow for movement of ID tags on, and off collars, but you can move them onto harnesses, leads, keyrings etc. They are just super handy!! I get mine from Bunnings

  • Harnesses. I like to use harnesses when walking multiple dogs, or just walking in exciting places (ie. when my naughty dogs pull). They are also excellent for puppies, as it's much easier to grab them if you need to fast! Some of my favorite include: 
    • The Balance harness
    • Ruffwear harnesses
    • TrueLove harness


  • Leads. I really like the lightweight leads that are easy to clip around my shoulder on beach walks and hikes. I also like the thinner leads because it's easier to hold mutiple leads if I'm walking more than one dog. 
  • Activity monitor. We all know that I'm into cool geeky tech. This is pretty freaken cool - it sincs with our own FitBit on an app on your phone, and tracks all activity really accurately. You can also add other dog's to your 'pack', journal activity, and you get notifications if there is any changes to normal activity. 

  • Cooling products. Sometimes as agility shows it gets really hot. Also Evo is a dog that runs hot. Even in winter he struggles on the bed and will sleep on the wooden floor. 
  • Toys. Essential for any puppy, or dog sport owner!
    • Catzilla door hanging cat toy. AKA the hairy ball toy. It's a cat toy, but there are very few dogs and puppies that I havent been able to tempt to play with this toy! 
    • https://www.4mymerles.com/ 
    • Hol-ee roller (but it has to be purple)
    • https://www.facebook.com/woofa.wares 
    • https://www.cleanrun.com/product/treat_hugger_treat_dispensing_fleece_toy/index.cfm?ParentCat=22 
    • https://www.ke-hu.fi/ 
  • Food interactives and slow feeder bowls. These are essential in my house, and we have tested almost everything out there! 
    • Kong. You really can't go wrong! 
    • Westpaw stuffables. Any of them. These are awesome and are great for tough chewers. 
    • Hexa slow feeder bowl: https://aikiou.com/product/hexa-dog-slow-feeder/ 
    • https://www.pet.kiwi/product/slow-feeder-interactive-pet-bowl/dd68n.aspx 
    • The Snoop. Liked by all in my house, LOVED by Chace. 

  • Blo - portable personal fan. So I don't deal well with the heat. I melt in summer. This is a cool wee USB chargable fan that clips into the front or back of your shirt, and sends air down your top to cool your core. 
  • Bum bag for off lead hikes. Yes it's a bum bag. But OMG the handyness! It fit's my phone perfectly in one pocket, treats and poo pags in the other, and has looks for carabineers that I put car keys and full poo bags on, and you could totally clip dog's leads to unless you have terrible pullers like me. AND the cutest colours! 
  • Kibble Kaddie. I was given this as a gift, but have found it super useful to grab and dispense my dry treats. I use Ziwipeak for lot's of my training, and this is easy to load clean, and carry around when I'm going out to the shed to train, or away for a weekend, or when the dog's are coming to school to work with the kids. 

FYI: I take NO responsibility for your spending!

#FDSANaNoWriMo blog post number 5
November the 4th 2018


mardi 8 janvier 2019

Dog's without tails in agility and fitness work

In agility in New Zealand we have some dog's that have docked tails, and some dogs that naturally have a bob tail. The breeds that we commonly see this in are; gun dog line Spaniels, Boxers, Schnauzers, Smithfield working dogs, and Aussie's. Whilst the law here has now changed to make docking illegal, there are still existing docked dogs, and those with the natural short tail from the bob tail gene.
Razz (docked)
Briddie (docked)

In agility (and in movement in everyday life) a tail is used in multiple ways: 

Archie the Aussie (Natural bob tail)
Evo jumping at a similar phase to Archie

What are the consequences for a shorter tail? 

There is some evidence for differing rear end muscle development in dogs with docked tails, increased rate of incontinence, and anecdotally I have had multiple practitioners comment that they often feel increased amounts of tension and muscle tightness in the muscles related to the tail in those dogs who have had part of their tail removed. 

There can be some consequences to behavior as a dog frequently communicates with their tail, and reducing this appendage can reduce their ability to communicate, and can also cause other dogs to be confused and not able to read them as well. 

Traditionally a docked tail was done to working field breeds, to reduce the chance of injury. However, it is not uncommon in other breeds (particularly greyhounds, sighthounds, whippets etc.) after a tail injury. 

It would be interesting to see the difference in these implications between a tail docked as a puppy, to a natural bob tail, to a tail docked later in life due to injury. At the moment (as far as I am aware) there is not much available on this. 

Camo (natural bob tail)

What are the implications for our agility dog? 

Razz jumping, using his front limbs to counterbalance.

Paris the Boxer (docked)
Evo: rear legs extending, and leading forwards with a relaxed neck and front limb position. 
What I have noticed in my observations of dogs without a full-length tail at agility is: 
  • They tend to not extend through the rear legs as much while jumping. This can result in less powerful jumping, and also in some rail knocking as they tuck their rear legs back in under their bodies. 
  • They tend to 'throw'' with their neck more, and counterbalance with the front legs, resulting in a less relaxed jump style that tends to be more variable. 
  • Reduced speed on a dog walk and sometimes seesaw due to an inability to counterbalance. 
  • Some can struggle to stay in, or have speed in the weaves.

What do we need to do to ensure it's not an issue? 
* Keep in mind that many of these things apply to ALL performance dogs! 
  1. As with any performance dogs, regular checks with a physio, rehabilitation vet, chiropractor or canine masseuse will help identify any issues early, and check that muscles are staying nice and relaxed. 
  2. Teach them to jump properly: use a V or spider jump to teach them to load their weight back and extend through the rear limbs, instead of pull over the jump with their front end. Film their early jump work, do grid work, and check that they are using their rear end adequately. Teach them to collect on jumps on a different cue to extended jumping. 
  3. Teach them confidence in contact work with balance games, and teach them (and reward) safe bailing off the contacts during these games. 
  4. Have a consistent handling system, and cue early to ensure dogs have time to adequately prepare their striding. 
  5. Work hard on their fitness, with a focus on a strong core and using the rear, and extending through the rear. Watch their form carefully, and look to extend their rear. Watch for them loading their back legs under their body and shifting weight forwards onto their front end. 
  6. Stay away from tricks where they use their front end more, like handstands. 
LimiT performing a power up exercise where the she moves from a sit, up into a stand. 

Teaching Take that he can extend through the hips by activating his gluts. 


Inkie's first agiity jumps on the spider / 'v' jump set up. 

Inkie learning to jump with a spider, or 'V' jump. You'll notice that in the first jump in this video Inkie drives from the front, whereas in the second jump she shifts her weight back more and powers from the rear. 


Obviously, this is important for me to consider, as not only are several of the Hybrid Training students dogs have altered tails but also my Flori has a partially docked tail. Happy training, and take care of your canine teammates.


Want to get some help with anything discussed in this blog post? 



Thank's to Emily (https://www.facebook.com/emilytaylorphotography/) and Caitlin (https://www.facebook.com/betelgeusephotography17/) for the photo's of Evo jumping in agility. 


dimanche 6 janvier 2019

Book review: Care of the Canine Athlete




Book title: Care of the Canine Athlete. A Complete Guide to Sports Dog Fitness


Author: Lowri Davies

What is this book about? 

This book examines the factors affecting fitness, and the chance of injury, from puppyhood and onwards for performance sports dogs.

Who would this book suit? 

 - Medical professionals treating any performance dogs, particularly agility
 - Agility and other performance sports dog trainers
 - Agility handlers, and competitors
 - Club instructors
 - Breeders of sports performance dogs
 - Anyone intending to study a qualification relating to fitness or care of canine athletes

What was awesome about this book? 

This book covers so many aspects relevant to keeping performance dogs fit, and healthy. From structure, to diet, to the amount of exercise that dogs of different ages should do, to injuries, and therapeutic modalities.  It really covers every aspect that may be relevant, and make's many of the concepts specific to agility.

The explanations were very detailed and it seemed more like a textbook than a training book.

What I didn't like about this book: 


Unfortunately, the only section that was lacking, in my opinion, was the 'Conditioning the agility dog' section. The exercises suggested, particularly the strength exercises, were dated and looked to be more from a rehabilitation background rather than from what I experienced in my CCFT training. This means that the strength exercises were perhaps not as specific to agility as what they could be. The 'Therapeutic exercises' section was a little better with well-explained exercises, however they were more towards the beginner end in terms of difficulty.

Verdict: 

This is one of the better books that I have read in terms of fitness relevant for agility. It is a good book for people intending to train in canine fitness related areas, or who would like to work with agility dogs in training. I wish that this had been available when I was training for my CCFT qualification, as I think it would have helped for the theory immensely.




Where to find this book:

https://www.dogwise.com/care-of-the-canine-athlete-a-complete-guide-to-sports-dog-fitness/





jeudi 3 janvier 2019

Getting out there


After Sarah of the Cognitive Canine came to New Zealand last year I decided to make a deliberate effort to get my dogs out walking more. It's always been something that I haven't been good, or consistent at. And to be honest it was something that I didn't particularly enjoy. It's hard and stressful with multiple dogs, and also extra stressful if I'm out with Chace with her reactivity. It's also super important for Chace, and a big part of the online course I'm doing with her in mind - Real Life Reactivity (link at the bottom).


Over the last year or so we have got much better, and been walking more, and checking out more spots. But you know what I realized these holidays? I feel like I've forever been on the search for the 'perfect walking spot'. And I've found a bunch of super cool places, but none of them are 'perfect'. I've just gotta get over that, and know what issues I might have to deal with at each spot.



The beach spot we went to yesterday was awesome. No other dogs, only a few people, but it was about 1 hour 40 mins drive each way, and there were some blue jellyfish that are dangerous that washed up on the beach. The forest walk we did last week (that we had to gain a permit for) ripped up Evo's pads, had ticks, and we lost one dog for a while to bunny chasing. Every spot has imperfections.


Here are some of the things that have made it easier for me to go and take them out. 

  • Friends with great dogs!
  • Harnesses for on lead only walks. 
  • Muzzle's for reactive dogs, or dogs that eat things that they shouldn't. And training so that the dog who has to wear one loves wearing it! 
  • A walking belt if I'm walking multiple dogs on lead. 
  • A super cool bum bag (😂). I like to take poop bags, treats, and my phone with me one walks, and I can't always fit these in pockets, especially in summer when I'm walking in shorts and t-shirts. My new one is super pretty, fit's everything in perfectly, and has extra loops which are super handy. It's from Cotton On. 
  • Treats. To reward the good things. 
  • A list of the walking spot's in 'Saved places' in my Google map on my phone. This way I know how long it's going to take, and directions and I can share it with anyone joining me on the walk. 
  • A fluoro bandana for visibility in dark foresty walks for if the dogs are off lead and their harnesses aren't particularly visible. 
  • Dog first aid kit in the vehicle. Just in case. 
  • Dog boots. These are a brand new thing for me (like this just arrived today). I'll let you know how they go for Evo and his terribly soft pads. 
  • Biothane long lines. 


The other thing that I've been conscious of is not putting strict rules on it like 'a walk every day for each dog that is at least an hour'. It's just not realistic for me with the amount of work I do, four dogs, and trying to also get some training in! Instead I am more flexible. If I train all the dogs one day we might not walk, or just a farm walk behind our house. If I do a couple of hours beach walk with Evo, Flori, and Deo then maybe just Chace on a bush walk the next day.

Slowly we are getting better at it, and I'm learning to relax and love it more. In the future hopefully I can add some GPS or tracking collars to our hiking kit, but at the moment there are no reliable systems that work in New Zealand that I can afford. But I'm searching! Now to go and vacuum up all the sand and brush it out of my bed from the beach walk yesterday. It seem's Evo bought a large portion of the beach home in his coat...



  • The Cognitive Canine Cog Dog Radio Podcast - Staying Safe
  • https://thecognitivecanine.com/blog/a-decompression-walk-chat/ 
  • https://thecognitivecanine.com/blog/gps-collars-ethics-and-decompression/ 
  • Casey of Inspiration Canine - Real Life Reactivity


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